If you want to use Power Coat 3 in 1 for painting a car, it is important to be aware that this is an industrial paint and cannot be directly compared to traditional car paint. Many older cars have also been treated with waxes and polishes that contain silicone, and this can create an unwanted chemical reaction between old and new paint. To ensure a good result, the preparation must therefore be carried out very thoroughly.
Pretreatment
Start by washing the car thoroughly to remove dirt and wax residue, preferably with a high-pressure washer and a degreaser with a high pH value. Then you should use a special agent that dissolves oil and grease, such as methylated spirits, so that the surface is completely clean and ready for further treatment. Once the substrate is cleaned, the surface is lightly sanded and polished to make it matt and provide the best possible adhesion for new paint. If silicone products are deeply embedded in old paint, it may be necessary to sand down to bare steel and build up a new paint system from scratch.
If you are going to paint the frame and have sandblasted it, you don't really need to apply a special primer, but using Nitrofest can save you time: it cures faster, has even better adhesion than 3 in 1 and is sandable.
The painting process
When applying Power Coat 3 in 1, it is recommended to spray two coats with approx. 60 µm thickness per coat. To achieve better durability against weather and UV radiation, it is recommended to then apply one coat of Power Coat Crystal Glaze or our two-component Anti-Graffic clear coat . The clear coat should be applied after 12–24 hours of drying time, depending on the conditions. If the finish is not crucial, Power Coat 3 in 1 can also be applied by roller, following the same principle.
This ensures that the paint adheres well, provides even protection and stays beautiful over time.
Some points to consider
Like all paint, Power Coat 3 in 1 will be affected by UV radiation – it will dull and fade over time.
If you are going to use 3 in 1 on a vintage car that you only drive in the summer, i.e. that it does not come into contact with salt water, you do not necessarily need clear coat as a top coat, but it is still recommended as extra protection – on the undercarriage for protection, and on the hood for shine.
